Sally Knows Italy and More

If near BWI Airport, best crab cakes ever!

2011-04-10T20:54:00.003-05:00

I was just at an Association of Retail Travel Agents board meeting held at a Baltimore-Washington International/BWI area hotel. One of the locals in the group steered us to G and M for our lunch break. Wow! Located in a strip mall, but enormous and nicely decorated inside. And truly, the best crab cakes ever. Eight ounces each of almost pure crab. The scallops also looked fabulous. Salads are huge. Extensive menu. They also ship nationwide. Enjoy!

G and M
804 N. Hammonds Ferry Road
Linthicum, MD
410/636-1777
www.gandmcrabcakes.com

Ceremony of the Keys at Tower of London

2011-02-17T08:37:00.005-06:00

Did you know that you can attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London free of charge? It's an event that takes place about 10 PM nightly...and has done so for over 700 years. You have to apply several months in advance for the limited number of places.

To quote from thelondontraveler.com: "Originally a very practical event, where the Tower was locked every evening, it is now a very private ceremony. The ceremony has in fact never been photographed. It takes just around five to ten minutes, and is really quite simple.

A Yeoman Warder (Beefeater) meets the Tower’s military guard, is escorted to the Tower Gates, where the Yeoman Warder locks the entrance. Upon return to the main part of the tower the party is challenged by yet another guard. Upon proper response, the party then goes to the central area of the tower where Last Post is played.

A small group of people are able to watch this ceremony each evening. You must apply in writing two to three months in advance, with all of the details of the people that would like to attend...

I can’t express just how fascinating experience seeing the Ceremony of the Keys was for me. It takes place just before 10pm, when that part of London is incredibly dark and quiet. Then seeing this ceremony take place in the same place with the same cobbled stone walk and castle walls that it has done for seven hundred years is just incredible. I highly, highly recommend it if you’re able to plan it ahead of time."

See http://bit.ly/fjWW41 for details.

Tour Houses of Parliament

2011-02-15T08:46:00.000-06:00

The Houses of Parliament are now open to overseas visitors for 75 minute guided tours year-round on Saturdays. Hours are 9:15 A - 4:15 P. This is in addition to the annual 'Summer Opening" in August and September when Parliament is not in session. Ticket prices are 15 GBP for adults (10 GBP for those over age 60 and for students), 6 GBP for children -- or 37 GBP for a family. Pre- booked tickets are available by phoning 0844 847 1672 or through Ticketmaster, http://bit.ly/fLOq1T

Roman Assisi

2011-02-04T09:27:00.000-06:00

A very interesting article from Rebecca Winke, writing for "Italy: Beyond the Obvious."

www.italybeyondtheobvious.com/2011/01/roman-assisi.html

If you lived in Italy instead...

2011-01-31T09:20:00.001-06:00

Kind of a fun list of things that would be different for someone living in Italy instead of the US:

www.ifitweremyhome.com/compare/US/IT?sms_ss=twitter&at_xt=4d3a1a38c12e10ba,0

How to Spot ATM Card Skimmers

2011-01-29T09:07:00.002-06:00

I've never had a client fall prey to an ATM card skimmer while abroad, but Bootsnall has a fine article on how to recognize and avoid such.

http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/10-04/atm-skimmers-how-to-protect-yourself.html

Train Travel in Italy, from www.italylogue.com

2011-01-24T09:28:00.003-06:00

Thanks to Jessica and Why Go Italy for this lovely tribute to travel travel in Italy.

http://bit.ly/gStTvv

Italy really did ban plastic bags as of January 1st

2011-01-06T12:17:00.000-06:00

Shopkeepers in Italy have been banned from giving out plastic shopping bags to reduce "white pollution." Italians use about 20 billion of those plastic bags a year and they are non-biodegradable. The new law took effect January 1. Stores can only give out plastic bags till they run out.There have been similar restrictions on the bags in about 200 Italian communities but now the ban is nationwide. If you are travelling to Italy this year, pack a cloth shopping bag to carry around. (Association of Retail Travel Agents newsletter)

Smoking prohibitions in Spain as of January 1, 2011

2011-01-04T09:43:00.002-06:00

From Jaunted.com newsletter: Warning to smokers: Don't light up in public places when traveling through Spain anymore. The country has enacted a ban on smoking in enclosed public spots, including restaurants and bars.

If you get caught puffing away, it will cost you; a first-time offense carries a $40 fine, and repeat offenders will have to cough up as much as $134,000 after the third strike. However, enclosed spots aren't the only places where where your pack of cigs and lighter are prohibited. You also can get slapped with a fine for smoking in some outdoor areas as well, including playgrounds and near hospitals.

This is a big change for the formerly haze-filled country, which was one of the few last remaining Western European nations to allow smoking in public places. Plus, according to the Christian Science Monitor, government officials estimate that 35 percent of residents above 16 are regular smokers

Buy Paris metro tickets on the other side

2011-01-03T08:08:00.000-06:00

Did you know that if you're taking the EuroStar from London to Paris, you can buy Paris metro and RER tickets right at St. Pancras station before boarding? They are available in the departure lounge, and even on the train.

National World War II Museum, New Orleans

2010-01-22T15:37:00.025-06:00

Today I visited the National World War II Museum in New Orleans, and can highly recommend it - and highly recommend that you plan to have lunch there.

Under the name of the National D-Day Museum, the facility opened on June 6, 2000. In 2003, it was designated the National WW II Museum by the U.S. Congress. There is now a second building across the street, with plans for yet further expansion. All through the buildings you see American veterans acting as volunteers.

Touring is self-guided, with the largest focus on D-Day preparation and operation. The first building has three floors, with large galleries and a good museum shop. Music everywhere is from the war period.

Across the street in a newer building are the Victory Theater, Stage Door Canteen and American Sector cafe. You first view a lead-in to the movie in an anteroom, then are taken into the Victory Theater with lovely leather seats, an enormous screen and high-tech effects. That total experience is about 45 minutes with shows every hour on the hour, is narrated by Tom Hanks, and very well done.

On Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday afternoon, there is "Let Freedom Swing," a jazz and swing production in the Stage Door Canteen, with brunch or dinner before...and dancing. See http://bit.ly/StageDoorCanteen

The American Sector cafe is by local chef and restauranteur ("August" is the name of his New Orleans restaurant) John Besh, and is exceptionally good, I thought. Besh was named one of Food and Wine's "Top 10 Chefs of America" in 1999, and "Best Chef in the Southeast" by the James Beard Foundation in 2006. Filled with light and having female wait staff in typical 1940's 'diner waitress' attire (complete with the seam up the back of the hose), the food is American Classic with ample twists. I had a grilled vegetable sandwich with a side of 'Southern Greens," all served in a nice presentation and being quite tasty. People at the table next to me were raving about the Chicken and Dumplings. All desserts are house-made, too. This place is definitely worth a stop.

"The Road to Victory: A Vision for Future Generations" capital campaign has been launched to expand the current museum and will include four prominent exhibit pavilions which will portray all campaigns of the war on land, sea, and air, and each branch of the U.S. military services, and a public parade ground. This $300 million expansion project will quadruple the size of the existing facility and will add state-of-the-art programs and exhibit space, library and archives, and collections and conservation space.

There are myriad events at the museum. You can check the calendar here: http://bit.ly/MuseumEventCalendar

And here's your unknown fact for the day: at the beginning of WW II, America had the 18th largest armed force in the world....behind Romania.

The museum carries the address of 945 Magazine St., but actually faces onto Andrew Higgins St. between Magazine and Camp. It is open 7 days a week, 9A-5P, except for Mardi Gras Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas. There is ample parking in a lot directly in front of the newer building, for $ 6. The American Sector restaurant is open Monday through Thursday 11 A - 9 P, Friday and Saturday 11 A - 11 P, closed on Sunday.

Useful travel finance website for foreign travel

2009-10-18T21:15:00.009-05:00

From Twitter today I learned of a very useful website about travel finances when abroad, credit card fees and more.. The 'credit card foreign transactions fee comparison" chart is especially a winner. I have a personal writeup that I provide my clients about use of ATM's and credit cards abroad, whether to exchange Euros in advance, etc., and this link will be a great addition.

There are also helpful links of all sorts on the site.

The general website is www.travelfinances.com and the chart mentioned is at http://bit.ly/37PXS0

Vermont for the Leaves

2009-10-13T10:02:00.003-05:00

My Texan son and his Yankee Bride were married in Connecticut on October 14, 1995...perfect for 'the leaves.' And I was lucky the week after to spend time at my co-in-laws ski house in Vermont. I fell in love with Vermont then, and have managed to go back twice. My most recent trip was October 3-9, 2009, and the 'color' timing was perfect. We spent three days in the Ludlow area, then headed way north to Montgomery, which is only 10 miles from the Canadian border. Driving Hazen's Notch Road/VT 58 was a special treat in a series of joyfully beautiful days. I also don't think it's possible to get a bad meal in Vermont, anywhere!

I'm sharing photos of some of the scenery with you. You do NOT have to sign in to view them. Simply click on "view photos," then on "play slideshow.' Enjoy the splendor!

http://tiny.cc/VermontLeaves

Very cool map for New England Fall Foliage!

2009-09-19T19:31:00.002-05:00

My son found this map online and sent it to me, since I'm 'going to see the leaves' in Vermont soon.

www.yankeefoliage.com/foliagemap

Top 10 World Cities for Pickpockets

2009-09-14T08:12:00.003-05:00

This helpful reminder list comes from www.traveldailynews.com, an industry publication that I read regularly.

European cities run off with majority of top 10 and Spain snags two spots
TripAdvisor points out top 10 places worldwide to beware pickpockets
Monday, September 14, 2009

TripAdvisor, the world's most popular and largest travel community, announced ten cities to beware pickpockets, according to TripAdvisor travelers and editors, and five tips to avoid getting pickpocketed. Visitors would do well to watch their bags particularly in major European cities, where many popular outdoor attractions are tourist havens – and prime targets for purse-snatchers.

1. Fear and Loathing in Las Ramblas: Barcelona, Spain
One reviewer actually compares Barcelona pickpocketing to a generally practiced and accepted sport, like soccer. For those who'd rather stay off the field, take caution: Las Ramblas, the famous wide, pedestrian walkway full of life, music, and people at all hours of the day and night, is the perfect place to get your purse poached.

2. Rome Rascals: Rome, Italy
With its ancient buildings and astounding historical and cultural attractions, Rome is full of both tourists and incredible things to sightsee. With thousands of people admiring the Trevi Fountain or the Pantheon, it's easy for a pickpocket to lift a camera or purse with a quick snip of scissors or some clever handiwork with a zipper. Travelers beware: 5 of Rome's top 10 most popular attractions according to TripAdvisor's Popularity Index are busy, outdoor attractions.

3. Cash or Czech: Prague, Czech Republic
The famously beautiful Charles Bridge is lined with 30 baroque-style statues, as well as thousands of tourists who crowd its ancient stones each year, making a perfect recipe for pickpocketing. Before taking in the view of the Vltava River and the Prague Castle beyond, be sure valuables are strapped down. Travelers beware: 6 of Prague's top 10 most popular attractions according to TripAdvisor's Popularity Index are busy, outdoor attractions.

4. Madrid Mischief: Madrid, Spain
El Rastro fleamarket and the crowded metro are often cited as spots where unfriendly pickpocket schemes can put a damper on a visit to this beautiful city. However, travelers should also beware that in museums (Madrid has many) pickpockets can be crafty as well, preying on distracted tourists.

5. Poaching in Paris: Paris, France
The City of Light draws enormous crowds from the base of the Eiffel Tower to the steps of Sacre-Coeur and everywhere in between. But enormous crowds can also be found below ground, in the city's metro system, where travelers should be especially cautious.

6. Italian Job: Florence, Italy
It is certainly easy to see why tourists would be distracted by the majestic beauty of Michelangelo's David and the other incredible and awe-inspiring works of art and pieces of history all around Florence. When admiring Michelangelo's creation, or at its replica in busy Piazza della Signoria, be alert that others may have their attention on your wallet.

7. Don't Cry for Me: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Buenos Aires is a vibrant and culturally rich city with much to offer, from the famed Teatro Colon to the city's many distinct neighborhoods. However, if while sightseeing you find you are suddenly covered in "bird droppings" (likely mustard) and a "friendly" local (likely a thief) happens to be standing by with napkins to help you clean up, beware. Travelers beware: 5 of Buenos Aires's top 10 most popular attractions according to TripAdvisor's Popularity Index are busy, outdoor attractions.

8. No Dutch Treat: Amsterdam, Netherlands
It's easy to get carried away in Amsterdam with so many fun things to see and do, but don't be too taken in by the canals and the friendly, laid-back atmosphere – pickpocketers have been known to take advantage of countless tourists in this enchanting city.

9. Greek Tragedy: Athens, Greece
This legendary city features countless ancient monuments, many of which are outdoors. Whether visiting the Parthenon on the Acropolis, or anything else in this magnificent historic city, keep the bags close to the vest while your eyes admire the rest. Travelers beware: 5 of Athens's top 10 most popular attractions according to TripAdvisor's Popularity Index are busy, outdoor attractions.

10. Hands On in Hanoi: Hanoi, Vietnam
The capital of Vietnam has its charming Old Quarter, littered with monuments and colonial architecture, and the city also features 600 temples and pagodas, making it a beautiful and unique place to visit, but also a place to stay alert for mischief. Travelers beware: 5 of Hanoi's top 10 most popular attractions according to TripAdvisor's Popularity Index are busy, outdoor attractions.

TripAdvisor's Top 5 tips to avoid being pickpocketed
1. Never keep your wallet or valuables in your rear pocket, even if it buttons – it's by far the easiest target.
2. Beware of the distraction tactic. Dropping something near you, squirting something on you, or simply jostling you. Be on guard when in crowds, and secure your belongings.
3. Pickpockets often work in pairs or groups and it's not just the usual suspects. Be cautious with any strangers—sometimes people who don't look like they'd be a threat, such as children or the elderly, can be part of larger operations.
4. Stay alert in confined spaces and near passageways. Try to avoid standing near the doorways of trains as groups of pickpockets can rush at you when the doors open.
5. Before you set off on a trip, pare down the contents of your purse or wallet as the smaller the bulge, the less likely pickpockets are to covet it.

"Not always a basic 'lift-and-run' operation, expert pickpocketing can sometimes involve more complicated scams," said Christine Petersen, chief marketing officer for TripAdvisor. "Travelers need to be aware of all kinds of tricks meant to distract them from their belongings while enjoying popular world attractions."

Very Typical Venetian Drink: The Spritz

2009-07-19T19:52:00.005-05:00

I'm borrowing today from Jaunted.com, one of my favorite websites. Learn about one of the most Venetian of drinks...how to pronounce it, how to order it, what's in it, and a good place to get it!

Where To Drink Jaunted's Favorite Spritz Cocktail In Venice
Where: San Polo 2807, Campiello San Tomà , Venice, Italy
by JetSetCD on July 17, 2009 at 3:29 PM

While the summer is at its peak and you're no doubt tired of chugging bottled water under the sun at tourist sites, we're going to hit some of the world's best watering holes and down their famous summer cocktails. Bottoms up!

As dusk hits the lagoon of La Serenissima, tourists retire to their hotels for naps or plain cooling down from hot days under the Adriatic sun, spent museum-hopping and souvenir shopping. This is the cocktail hour in Venice, when it feels as though the locals emerge after lying in wait for the tourists to tire. To celebrate the beginning of another evening of socializing and good food, the cocktail hour usually focuses around Venice's signature local drink: the Spritz.

Based on either Campari or Aperol—with Campari the typically male version and Aperol (order "Spritz al Aperol") for women—a Spritz is a happy little red-ochre potion which can be found year-round in Venetian bars. Nonetheless, summer turns us away from our usual Prosecco and towards the fresher comforts of a Spritz at the Ciak 1 bar in the San Polo district.

Ciak 1, left out of most guidebooks and online bar listings, is a spot we've discovered after much Venice trial-and-error in terms of finding a great atmosphere, great drinks, and a place which also sells the Frittelle specialities of the February Carnevale. Nestled in the Campiello San Tomà, a small square which seems to magically appear when you're on the verge of becoming very frustrated with attempting to navigate Venice, Ciak 1 is our highest recommendation for sitting with a friend and savoring a simple Spritz.

Here's how to mix your own at home:

· Dump some ice into a lowball glass
· Pour 2oz of Prosecco from Treviso (ok, or any sparkling white wine)
· Add a touch of sparkling water
· Finish with 1.5oz of either Campari or Aperol
· Garnish with an orange peel and serve

Or, go truly summer cocktail with a little alternative we've come up with ourselves, even though we won't pretend to be the first the mix the ingredients. It's a result of much time spent in hot Italian weather. Enjoy it the Jaunted way:

· Dump a fistful of ice into a highball glass or larger
· Pour in the contents of one of those cute Campari Soda bottles
· Empty a can of Lemon Soda in there as well
· Mix and serve; it's like a fizzy grapefruit-ish cocktail!

World's Most Scenic Train Rides

2009-07-02T09:20:00.003-05:00

The American Society of Travel Writers has come out with a fine list of what it considers the World's Top 10 Train Rides. See http://ow.ly/glYw

And another good list from The Travel Editor, http://ow.ly/gm00

World's Most Spectacular Wine Tasting Rooms

2009-07-01T19:58:00.003-05:00

Thanks to Travel + Leisure for this lovely look at some of the world's most spectacular sites for wine tasting!

http://bit.ly/mto2p

Tipping Advice from Fodor's

2009-06-28T20:37:00.001-05:00

The only thing I would add to this good advice is to check first to see if a tip is already included in your restaurant bill. 15% is included in Italy, for example...but it's considered good manners to still leave several Euros more to 'round up.'

www.fodors.com/news/story_3373.html

When Kids Fly Solo

2009-06-28T19:59:00.002-05:00

My grandsons, ages 6 and 9, will be flying from Austin to BWI on their own in a few weeks, so I took special notice of this Dallas News article with good tips. Thought I'd share.

http://bit.ly/KuNKs

Small restaurant in Paris

2009-06-08T11:25:00.001-05:00

I have had this place in my Paris Notes for Clients since 2003, and was delighted to see that it is where the Obamas ate in June 2009 – someone advised them well!

La Fontaine de Mars, 129 rue St-Dominique, 7th, metro: Ecole-Militaire. Always reliable, old fashioned bistro, chic clientele. Good traditional cooking, friendly welcome, good value; terrace seating in summer. See www.fontainedemars.com

Dial 112 in 27 European countries in emergency

2009-03-12T21:24:00.002-05:00

The system isn't perfect yet, but this is useful travel information: for what you would call 911 for in the USA, you can dial 112 in any of 27 European countries for help. Only 19 ountries can answer in English so far, but that is improving. For more information, see http://tiny.cc/jf3Iz

Venice Organ Concerts for Lent

2009-03-05T10:09:00.002-06:00

Thanks to my friend Nan McEloy in Venice for alerting us to a wonderful series of Lenten organ concerts in Venice. How I wish I could be there for a few!

http://tiny.cc/kf7YQ

From Budget Travel: "Paris: Eating Haute for Not A Lot"

2009-02-18T10:20:00.002-06:00

L'Atelier and La Table de Joël Robuchon One of the country's most famous chefs came out of retirement a few years ago to open the left-bank L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (5 rue de Montalembert, 7th arrondissement, 011-33/8-26-10-12-19) and the right-bank La Table de Joël Robuchon (16 avenue Bugeaud, 16th arrondissement, 011-33/1-56-28-16-16). Neither is strictly haute, but both are undoubtedly hot. L'Atelier draws most of the attention, thanks to edgy design and open kitchen theatrics. La Table, however, boasts one of the best deals in town. You'll find many of the same dishes as at l'Atelier but for half the price at lunch. The €55 ($70) menu includes a glass of wine, hors d'œuvres and a main dish, plus cheese, dessert, coffee, and mignardises. As an added (and rare) bonus, both places are open every day of the year.(Budget Travel Online)

La Table carries two Michelin stars. 16, av. Bugeaud, Paris, 75116
01 56 28 16 16. See also http://tiny.cc/A3Bzl

Divina Cucina

2009-01-15T09:08:00.006-06:00

My friend Judy Witts Francini, aka "Diva," is going to be doing cooking class on the West Coast of the US soon. How I wish my schedule allowed me to be present for at least one!

Diva is a treat: an American who moved to Florence in 1984, fell in love with Italy and an Italian, ran a cooking school in Florence for many years. She now offers Market Tours at the wonderful Florence market -- doing that with her is such fun, as all the vendors know her and she can tell you what booth has a third-generation butcher, what booth sells her special blend of herbs, etc. Judy also does three-day or week-long cooking classes in the Chianti area, and there's truly no telling what she will come up with next!

Diva's website has wonderful tips for restaurants and shops in Florence and the Chianti area, a "Strada del Vino" route with suggestions for each town...see www.divinacucina.com . And of course, a fun blog at www.divinacucina.blogspot.com

And oh yes, that US West Coast Cooking Class Schedule:

Feb 12,13 and 14th- Ramekins Cooking School- Sonoma
www.ramekins.com

Feb 15 and 16th -Arroyo Vista Inn B&B and cooking school-Pasadena
www.arroyovistainn.com/ A B&B with its own wine cellar!

Feb 19- guest chef Angeli Cafe in LA ? to be confirmed still
www.angelicaffe.com

Feb 21- Cavallo Point Cooking School- Sausalito
www.cavallopoint.com/cooking_school.php

Feb 22 - Slow Food Dinner in Marin ( members only)

Feb 25 - Cooks, Pots and Tabletops Cooking school- Eugene, Oregon
www.cookspots.com/contact_us.php

Feb 27 and 28- Diane's Market Kitchen- Seattle
www.cookspots.com/contact_us.php

Bernard and Trust and Me

2009-01-06T09:25:00.005-06:00

First work day of this new year, three potential new clients contacted me about my services. I was struck that some of the things they asked me were different from past first inquiries. This time the questions were less about how I worked and what it would cost, and more about whether they could trust me to be real and solid. Questions about how often I travel to Europe (generally twice a year), when was the last time I was in Italy (three weeks in Fall 2008). In fact, one caller got right down to it and said, "I just needed to find out if you are real." Another via email asked various questions and then wrote, "You do sound like you know what you're doing."

My oh my, what the latter half of 2008 has done to us all, with Bernard Madoff being the icing on that cake. I've had people tell me that they felt they could trust me because of the picture of me with my grandchildren on my website. But I'm sure Bernard could have offered that, too. I've made a point of putting 'testimonials' from past clients on my website. But I'm sure Bernard could have offered that, too. So how do those of us who are indeed 'real' and 'solid' make clients comfortable with us in this 'new normal?' Carrying hard-earned credentials isn't enough, and grandchildren photos and client testimonials may not be, either.

In the mid-80's I worked with someone who has gone on to become an instantly recognizeable, nationally known figure in the political arena; if I gave the name, some of you would crack up and some would pass out, so I won't. But he once said a very insightful thing to me: "Sally, you trust people until they give you a reason not to. Most folks don't trust someone until they give them a reason to." Then he had a question: "Don't you get hurt a lot?"

My answer was that no, I didn't get hurt a lot, though some had been doozies. But that pretty much I had found that we get back what we give in this world, and that self-fulfilling prophecies indeed exist. So, I planned to go on trusting people until they give me a reason not to, much preferring that approach to the opposite.

I'm still doing that, and hope that even in the jaded state that hangs over all of us as we emerge from 2008, I can continue. But I'm pondering how I can most easily help potential new clients become comfortable that I am real and genuine and won't let them down.

Jewish Quarter in Rome

2008-12-31T12:47:00.003-06:00

In both 2007 and 2008, I was lucky enough to have time to spend in the main synagogue and Jewish Museum in Rome.

This is a memorable experience for anyone, regardless of faith.
Rome claims the longest continuous Jewish community in the world (23 centuries), and I recommend the museum and synagogue tour (one cannot visit the synagogue unless on a tour or with an approved guide), along with just walking 'round in the Jewish Quarter. English-language tours of the synagogue are offered several times daily. See www.museoebraico.roma.it .

One of the most moving parts of the synagogue tour for me was to see the plaque on the back side wall honoring Charles Aaron Golub, the first American Jewish soldier to worship in the synagogue on June 4, 1944, once the Allies liberated Rome and opened the desecrated house of worship. The Rome synagogue was the first to be liberated in Europe, and on June 9, 1944, Lt. Morris Kertzer, a rabbi and American Jewish Chaplain from Iowa, led 4000 Roman Jews in a prayer there. Rabbi Kertzer was part of the US Fifth Army that had landed at Anzio.

On April 13, 1986, Pope John Paul II, embracing the world's Jews as ''our elder brothers,'' paid the first recorded papal visit to a synagogue - this one - and condemned persecution and displays of anti-Semitism ''at any time and by anyone.''

There are several fine organizations and guides offering Jewish-oriented walking tours in Rome.

An excellent source for more information regarding Jewish history in Rome is www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vjw/Rome.html .

Christmas, Family and Demi Moore!

2008-12-20T09:17:00.004-06:00

This will be a different Christmas for me. Until my mother's death this year at age 101, I had always gone to Houston where she lived. My brother and sister-in-law blessedly did the family Christmas for many years, and my son and his family came on alternate years...the other being spent in Connecticut with my daughter-in-law's family.

This year, my brother and sister-in-law will be at their oldest son's house, and I will be hosting Christmas Lunch at my home for my son, daughter-in-law, two grandsons, my former husband and his wife. Christmas Morning I'll be at Tom and Terry's house (the former husband and his wife) to watch the kids open presents there...and Terry will be doing the potato casserole that my sister-in-law always did and my son loves.

I feel very blessed, and know that for varying reasons, Tom, Terry and I each merit a few stars for having made this new version of 'family' work. Two weeks ago, in the Liz Smith column in our local paper, in a quote from Demi Moore, of all people, I found a more clear and concise explanation of my feelings than I could have put together myself. Moore, in talking about she and husband Ashton spending Thanksgiving and Christmas with ex-husband Bruce Willis, his girlfriend and the Moore-Willis children, said: "The key is to remember what you had and what you gained, and not get attached to what you lost."

Lots of wisdom in those few lines. Amen!

Italian Christmas

2008-12-18T14:12:00.002-06:00

One of my favorite small wineries to visit and to have lunch in the Chianti area is Casa Emma, http://www.casaemma.com/ . Casa Emma also sends a fine monthly newsletter, and I'm borrowing from the December issue to share with you some information about Christmas in Italy.

<< Although many biblical historians believe that the actually birth of Jesus took place some time in the Spring, early Roman Christian's felt it important to create a feast day that coincided with the many pagan celebrations had always taken place during the winter solstice. The celebration of the birth of the sun soon became the celebration of the birth of the Son.

The nativity scene, a popular symbol of Christmas throughout the world, also has its roots in early Italian history. The first nativity scene, the presepio, was created by artist Giovanni Vellita in the village of Greccio in the year 1224. The piece was created at the request of none other than St. Francis Of Assisi. The presepio quickly became embraced as a holy symbol of Christmas when St. Francis said mass in front of Vellita's creation the first time.

The season of Christmas begins 8 days before Christmas on December 17th and lasts until the Epiphany (also known as "Little Christmas") on January 6th. The eight days before Christmas are known as the Novena and are often marked by children going door to door singing and giving recitations. Unlike the posadas common in Latin American cultures that symbolize the journey of Mary and Joseph in search of shelter, the Italian pastorals honor the journey of the shepherds to the manger.

Although dietary restrictions no longer play a central role in Catholic faith, many Italians still observe a strict fast from sundown on December 23rd to sundown on December 24th,. During the twilight hours of December 24th, candles or the traditional Yule log (which must burn through New Year's day), are lit and prayers are said around the family manger scene (the presepio) and a delicious feast is enjoyed before midnight mass.Because the regions of Italy are so diverse, it is difficult to identify one traditional Italian Christmas feast, but certain foods remain common. Fish remains a common ingredient, as older church doctrine limited the eating of meat on certain holy days. Most Christmas sweets contain nuts and honey, said to honor the fertility of the earth and make for a sweet new year. Panettone is a sponge cake studded with candied fruit - much lighter than the dense fruitcake concoctions that common in other countries! Nougat candies (torrone) and a rich gingerbread (panforte) are also very popular.

La Befana is Italy's answer to Santa Claus, although she arrives on the eve of the Epiphany instead of Christmas Eve. Legend has it that the Three Wise Men had stopped at La Befana's home asking for directions to the manger where the Christ child had been born. La Befana had no idea who they were in search of, and suspiciously declined to accompany them when the offered to let her join them. Rethinking their offer after they left, she decided to join them but became lost. She stopped every child who crossed her path and gave them treats in the possibility that one of them was the baby Jesus the three strangers had spoke of. And every year she continues her search for the Christ child she missed seeing, and she continues to leave treats for good children along the way!>>>

For photos of some amazing presepi, see http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=presepio&gbv=2

Herculaneum Exhibit in Naples

2008-12-17T12:33:00.005-06:00

I have many clients who have enjoyed a visit to Herculaneum even more than to Pompeii. And just as many of the wonderful original pieces from Pompeii are in the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, there are now more things from Herculaneum there. A guide friend who is very familar with Naples says the exhibit is spectacular.

Here's the info from USA Today in a new report:

"Herculaneum, ignored by many a Pompeii-bound tourist as that other city the volcano Vesuvius "froze" in ancient time, is showing off its glories, including some never before seen by the public.

While visitors pour into the sprawling ruins of ancient Pompeii — 2.5 million came last year — archaeologists over the years have been quietly extracting remnants of the much-less visited Herculaneum, and what marvelous remnants they have plucked from that town where affluent ancient Romans savored sea views from well-appointed villas."

The exhibit Herculaneum, three centuries of discoveries brings together for the first time most of all the important statuary dug out of the bowels of the town, from the first underground exploratory tunnels during Bourbon King Charles' reign in the early 18th century, to the more scientific digs of the last couple of decades.

Running through April 13 at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, the show's delights range from exquisite tiny bronzes to colossal marble statues. Many pieces are from the aristocratic Villa of the Papyri, which takes its name from the library of papyrus scrolls found in the partially excavated residence. Among the show's stars are a pair of bronze athletes from the villa. The athletes are poised to sprint in an eternal wait for the starting signal."

Museum website is
www.culturacampania.rai.it/site/en-gb/Cultural_Heritage/Museums/Scheda/napoli_archeologico.html?link=storia

Books for being in Rome with kids

2008-12-16T18:20:00.004-06:00

If you have plans to be in Rome with kids, you might like to acquire "Around Rome with Kids: 68 Great Things to Do Together, "written by Dana Prescott and published by Fodor in 2002.

Or, "Rome with Kids: An Insider's Guide," by J.M. Pasquei.

Far Away Friends

2008-12-13T08:03:00.005-06:00

At this season, my thoughts turn to distant friends who I won't get to see or share a cup of something with over the holidays. Some in the USA, some abroad, some especially in Italy. For those in Italy...you know who you are: people with whom business first brought us in touch but with whom friendship grew to keep us more closely in touch. You have blessed and enriched my life!

So lift a glass or cup, accept a virtual hug and know that I wish we could spend some time together over the holidays.

English language bookstore and paperback exchange in Florence

2008-12-10T21:10:00.003-06:00

Ever been in Florence and run out of 'trip books' to read? Or on a rainy day just want the warmth of a bookstore...one that has books in English? Or have paperbacks that you want to sell back rather than carry further in your luggage? This is the place. PAPERBACK EXCHANGE has been around for almost 30 years, has stock ranging from used books to new best sellers, and hosts readings by authors and other community events. It's located in the Centro Storico a stone's throw from the Duomo, and is open daily except Sunday at Via dell Ochre 4R. See www.papex.it

Ordering books from Amazon International

2008-12-09T21:06:00.007-06:00

A few years ago I became aware that Amazon Books in other countries often had an even better selection of books and maps for that country than Amazon in the US does. For example, www.amazon.co.uk/ has a far more extensive inventory of books for the UK, and also for many countries in Europe. And then there's Amazon Germany, Amazon Spain, etc. Yep, many of the books are in the language of the foreign country, but not all. And yep, you have to pay internatinal postage. But at times when I have been desperate for a certain book or map, the Amazon international sites have saved me.

I've also used Amazon.co.uk several times to send gifts to people living in Europe, which has worked out much better than sending it from the USA.

See http://tinyurl.com/5ns8sj for a list of Amazon Books international sites so far.

Cozy 'bar' in Florence

2008-12-08T10:51:00.004-06:00

In Florence, head your tired feet to the lovely small bar at Hotel Helvetia & Bristol, which is right in the heart of everything. Quiet, serene, friendly service, good snacks, good bar menu for light meals. In the home page photo at http://helvetiabristol.warwickhotels.com, the room in the background is the bar. Via dei Pescioni 2, 50123 Florence, ItalyTel: +39 055 26651

Wisdom from an unexpected source

2008-12-07T17:04:00.008-06:00

Though my former husband and I have been divorced for 27 years and he has been remarried for some of them, all three of us go as grandparents to our son's house in DC at Easter and often do things together when the kids are visiting in Austin. Last year Thanksgiving Dinner was for all of us at my house...and Christmas Dinner will be that way this year. We are indeed 'family.'

But I never expected Demi Moore - or the Liz Smith "Personalities" column - to be the source that expressed my feelings about that much better than I have ever managed to.

The blurb was talking about the fact that Moore and her (younger) husband, and Bruce Willis and his (younger) girlfriend, and the three Moore-Willis daughters had Thanksgiving together and will be together at Christmas. Moore's quoted comment was: "I think the key to any past is that you recognize and hold on to what you loved and what you gained, and you don't attach yourself to what you've lost."

Amen! Life is so much more pleasant this way.

The Very Best Coffee!

2008-12-06T19:53:00.004-06:00

I became a coffee nut a couple of years ago, but only last month did I come across what I think is "The Best Coffee I've Ever Had." My friend Nan McElroy in Venice sent me some of her favorite, the Galapagos variety from Caffe del Doge in Venice. WOW! I ordered for myself, several blends, and agree with Nan that the Galapagos is best suited to my taste. 'Course the shipping cost more than the coffee itself, but I will absolutely be ordering again. Shipment came within a week's time. See www.caffedeldoge.com/en/frame.htm and be happy! This stuff is fabulous.

And to meet Nan and learn about the superb "Instructructions for Use" books that she has written for travelers to Italy and France, see http://livingveniceblog.com/. These are available from Amazon.com

Bologna local dining tip

2008-12-06T17:50:00.000-06:00

While in Italy last November, I met up with a friend who I had not seen in literally 50 years...since we graduated from high school. She has lived in Bologna since 1965 and is a professor at University of Bologna. She, her son and his fiancee took us to dinner at their favorite local place: Ristorante Petroniano Club, Via dell'Orso 9, closed Sundays. The owner, Modesto Casolari, an elegant older gentleman, is ultra-present and overseeing everything. We had speck with pineapple and banana, which may sound odd but was terrific! Then a plate with three pastas...tagliatelli with ragu, spinach tortoloni stuffed with cheese, and a spicy fusilli. And, liking three things on a plate...we had a dolce plate with Tiramisu, Zuppa Englese and Semifreddo with fruit sauce. The restaurant is in the heart of Bologna. See
www.hotfrog.it/Societa/Club-Petroniano-Ristorante and http://www.cuocone.it/eng/where_work.html (click to see menu)

Picasso restaurant at Bellagio, Las Vegas

2008-12-06T17:04:00.002-06:00

I had the good fortune to be invited to a birthday dinner at Picasso restaurant in the Bellagio Hotel, Las Vegas. What a treat! Picasso is an AAA Five Diamond restaurant, and has been for seven years.The ambiance is lovely, with the renowned Bellagio fountains doing their thing just outside the enormous windows. The service was impeccable, the food beautiful and delicious. There was a three-course prix-fixe menu with set items at $ 125 per person, and another three-course prix-fixe menu with selections in each category for about $ 10 less per person. We were able to mix and match between the two menus. Each course was beautifully presented, needless to say. There is also seating on a small terrace right in front of the fountains, and there are heaters for when it's chilly. For me, though,the music was too loud there when the fountains were playing...you'd pretty much have to stop talking for those minutes.

Our head waiter was Ron, and the Maitre'D' is Ryland Worrell. For a special occasion, I can highly recommend Picasso. See www.bellagio.com/restaurants/picasso.aspx